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            阿尔山那条山林小路

            来源:今晚报 | 查 干  2019年09月29日07:24

            我喜欢走山林小路,因为它幽静、温润、丰盈。在山林中,我从不迷路,对草木有特殊的形态记忆。有一次,母亲对邻家大婶笑着说,我这儿子,从小爱走山林小路,前生许是一只山兔呢,蹦蹦跳跳的,见山林就钻,也不迷路。如今,余白发覆额,人老腿短,想走山林小路,已成梦想?;叵肫鹄?,留在记忆里的,有数的那么几条。其中一条,就是阿尔山那条山林小路。因为它,与已故诗友朱戈有关。

            朱戈,蒙古族,北京生人,极具才华。他生前写有一首长诗《苏立特峰》得到广泛赞誉。长诗,写的是有关阿尔山温泉的美丽传说。诗名是我建议定的:苏立特,蒙古语中是雄伟之意。他喜欢阿尔山,在那里泡过温泉。他常走一条山路,并常去一座由原木搭成的小小山亭。他在那里听牧民讲述有关阿尔山的传说。他曾对我说,若上苍赐恩,还我自由身,有机会再去阿尔山,一定带一本《苏立特峰》放在那个山亭,祭山,亦祭圣泉水??上?,他这个愿望,终于落空,带着遗憾,走完了他的风雨人生。留给人间的,只有一条小报消息:“青城站上,书生轻生?!泵棵肯肫?,不由唏嘘。

            1977年初春,我被组织上安排去阿尔山温泉疗养院疗养。那时,我身心皆疲,一天只能吃下一个馒头,浑身无力,步履维艰。当时的阿尔山温泉疗养院,规模很小,几乎与世隔绝。但它的温泉水,对于蒙古人而言,是生命之水。这里的牧人说,它除了对风寒风湿病症有特效之外,对肠胃病症也奏效。果不其然,我泡温泉不过一个月,饭量大增,且能大步行走。阿尔山的六月,是达子香的盛期。满山满谷的达子香,映照天空与大地。身临其境,有时会产生错觉,这里可是梦境?达子香,又称兴安杜鹃、映山红。

            有一天,我终于找到了诗人朱戈走过的那条山路和那个小小山亭。路与亭,皆已荒芜。山草没膝,露水湿透了我的裤管。一丛丛的达子香,寂寥地盛开着。亭子里,有一只金雕在打盹,我不敢向前,轻轻嗨了一声,它才从梦里醒来,很不情愿地振翅高飞。我大声地喊:有扰兄弟,对不起了。山那边,竟有回声传来,而后又归于寂静。我猛然想起贾岛的《寻隐者不遇》:“松下问童子,言师采药去。只在此山中,云深不知处?!比欢?,这里没有童子,只有金雕??上颐焕吹眉拔仕?,诗人朱戈是否在此采药,可有归期?

            山亭两侧,一片白草柔柔婉婉地摇曳。新草已尺高,围着老草生长。生命,在此处轮回,悄无声息地轮回。这是自然之律,何须嗟叹?诗人朱戈虽已远去,苏立特峰仍在屹立,圣泉之水仍在流淌。小小山路,把我引到这里;荒芜山亭,亦迎我不弃。谁言万事皆空,一切虚无?我明明看到了,一晃而没的一个熟悉的身影。他有些寂寥,有些匆忙,不知赶往何处——这片山野和这几株达子香可以作证:无疑,是诗人朱戈。于是,我端坐风中,花香草香围拢而来。有鹧鸪飞掠头顶,有飞龙起于亭前——这是我想象中的仪式。我打开背包,将诗集《苏立特峰》翻了出来。这是朱戈诗兄生前送我留念的。我在诗集扉页上提笔写下:“以此诗集,替故人来祭阿尔山的山与水,亭与路,还有往日那些达子香?!蔽移鹕?,手捧诗集,深深鞠躬。而后,将诗集翻开,置于亭中石上,再用一把青草和几株达子香盖住它。事毕,轻声传话:诗兄,这个世界我们来过,笑过,唱过,死又何惧、何憾?这里是母亲的土地,我们这是在回归,而非远离。

            如斯,我总算了却一件心事:替朱兄还了愿。之后的日子里,我几乎每个清晨都来走这条山路,并去登临山亭。每次再用青草和野花,盖住诗集。也常遇那只金雕,我与它隔亭相望。我们相互没了敌意,不再提防——这是我们共同的家园。

            再去阿尔山,已是2002年仲秋。几位作家诗人深入大兴安岭腹地采风,其中有从维熙、陈忠实、邵燕祥。第一站,便是阿尔山。这时的阿尔山,已由小镇变为名城。原来简陋的招待所已变成星级宾馆;原来石砌的水池都变成高档的瓷砖水池。这里的温泉水,含有放射性元素氡以及氯、镁、硫、硅等十几种元素,水质柔柔的、绵绵的,泡得你皮肤像绸缎一般光滑。作家陈忠实不由大发感慨:再泡几次,我们都要变成水美人了。第二天清早,我独自走出宾馆,去找那条久违的山路和那个小亭子——放目处,哪有它们的影子?小路变成了宽阔大道,亭子变为红砖小楼??罩械褂兄唤鸬裨诜尚?,是不是往日那一只的子孙,就不好推断了。眼下,不是物是人非,而是人是物非了。阿尔山的变迁,令人惊奇亦兴奋,只是那条草野山路和那座山亭以及那本诗集《苏立特峰》都不见了踪影。

            好在还有清晰如昨的记忆,在心屏留存。

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